Balenciaga explores coral-inspired couture as Icicle turns to brighter colour

FashionNetwork reports contrasting Paris collections as Balenciaga faces leadership speculation and Icicle prepares for Sabato De Sarno’s influence.

Balenciaga presented Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Paris, using coral formations as a reference for layered shapes, fluid draping and intricate surface treatments. The show extended the couture techniques seen in his earlier debut for the house, while moving away from the aesthetic associated with former creative director Demna. Balenciaga also introduced new footwear and leather bags, including the Lounge Sneaker, Nodo and Silhou Tote. FashionNetwork reports that CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli dismissed questions about Piccioli’s future, saying the departure rumours should remain unconfirmed.

At Icicle, womenswear director Bénédicte Laloux presented a practical wardrobe spanning coats, shirts, trousers, skirts and shorts, with texture and loose movement central to the designs. Alongside the label’s familiar white, beige and red, the collection added pastel yellow, blue, moss and anise green. Icicle is due to mark its 30th anniversary next year, while De Sarno’s appointment as artistic director is expected to shape the Autumn/Winter 2027/28 range. Laloux will continue leading womenswear, and the brand has more than 200 boutiques across Paris and Shanghai.

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